I ordered "the Art of Cooking made Plain and Easy" by Hannah Glasse from the Book Depository a couple of weeks ago. It arrived last week, and today being the official Queen's Birthday holiday in New Zealand (no work), I did some baking from it.
Choosing something to bake from an 18th century cookbook is not easy. I was tempted by "wigs", but had no idea of what they were supposed to look like - the penultimate instruction is "shape into wigs" - so that was a washout. You also need to choose a recipe that gives more or less complete instructions, and that's not overly extravagant with butter and eggs.
I settled on Portugal Cakes and Gingerbread.
The recipes for both of these were rather massive, so I reduced them considerably. Portugal Cakes, for example, wanted 10 eggs, and the Gingerbread 3 quarts of flour!
I started with said Portugal cakes. I quartered the recipe, starting off with 4oz flour (fine white, sifted very fine) …
Choosing something to bake from an 18th century cookbook is not easy. I was tempted by "wigs", but had no idea of what they were supposed to look like - the penultimate instruction is "shape into wigs" - so that was a washout. You also need to choose a recipe that gives more or less complete instructions, and that's not overly extravagant with butter and eggs.
I settled on Portugal Cakes and Gingerbread.
The recipes for both of these were rather massive, so I reduced them considerably. Portugal Cakes, for example, wanted 10 eggs, and the Gingerbread 3 quarts of flour!
I started with said Portugal cakes. I quartered the recipe, starting off with 4oz flour (fine white, sifted very fine) …
… and 4 oz sugar (beaten very fine) in a bowl …
… then I rubbed in 4 oz butter (best sweet) …
… until it looked like grated white bread:
Next I had to "beat well with a whisk" 2 1/2 eggs (I used 3 smallish ones) …
… and add these, along with some sack (sherry), …
… rose water (rose essence), …
and currants to my mixture. This was an ideal time to use some of my home-grown currants, so I did.
Not having much idea of what size and shape of tins Portugal cakes required, I used what I had; some nice round-bottomed patty pans.
I buttered them and put the cake mix in, and forgot to take a photo before they went into the oven. This is what they looked like when they came out though:
They're very tasty, and not too dense (I really did beat hell out of those eggs).
I reduced the gingerbread recipe to a third of the original. I started off with 1 quart of flour (some mental arithmetic was required here, resulting in my using 1.2 litres of flour measured in a 500ml measuring jug) …
… and a goodly amount of ginger (I trusted Greggs to have beaten it well for me) although not the 3 oz the recipe wanted. I didn't have that much in the house.
Next came nutmeg, cloves, and mace, with extra nutmeg instead of the mace. I'd run out.
Like a good little 18th century kitchen maid I ground the cloves myself in a mortar and pestle:
1/4 lb of sugar went in next:
Then I melted together 1/4 lb butter and 2/3 lb mixed treacle and golden syrup. It was supposed to be all treacle, but I didn't have enough.
The treacle mixture then went ito the dry mixture, and I mixed it as well as I could. It didn't look right at all. It was crumbly, not doughy or battery. There was no way that it could ever turn into a loaf of anything!
I muttered away to myself, thinking my "quart of flour" must have been very off, and decided to throw in some yoghurt.
I put in enough to turn the crumbly mixture into a bread-like dough …
… turned that into a buttered and papered loaf tin, and put it into the oven to bake.
It took a lot longer than the recipe's "an hour in a quick oven will bake it", but eventually it was done.
I haven't tried it yet, I might even let it age a bit before I do.
I checked the quart of flour thing with Wolfram Alpha, and my measurement was pretty much spot on. Maybe Mrs Glasse left something out of her recipe.
… then I rubbed in 4 oz butter (best sweet) …
… until it looked like grated white bread:
Next I had to "beat well with a whisk" 2 1/2 eggs (I used 3 smallish ones) …
… and add these, along with some sack (sherry), …
… rose water (rose essence), …
and currants to my mixture. This was an ideal time to use some of my home-grown currants, so I did.
Not having much idea of what size and shape of tins Portugal cakes required, I used what I had; some nice round-bottomed patty pans.
I buttered them and put the cake mix in, and forgot to take a photo before they went into the oven. This is what they looked like when they came out though:
They're very tasty, and not too dense (I really did beat hell out of those eggs).
I reduced the gingerbread recipe to a third of the original. I started off with 1 quart of flour (some mental arithmetic was required here, resulting in my using 1.2 litres of flour measured in a 500ml measuring jug) …
… and a goodly amount of ginger (I trusted Greggs to have beaten it well for me) although not the 3 oz the recipe wanted. I didn't have that much in the house.
Next came nutmeg, cloves, and mace, with extra nutmeg instead of the mace. I'd run out.
Like a good little 18th century kitchen maid I ground the cloves myself in a mortar and pestle:
1/4 lb of sugar went in next:
Then I melted together 1/4 lb butter and 2/3 lb mixed treacle and golden syrup. It was supposed to be all treacle, but I didn't have enough.
The treacle mixture then went ito the dry mixture, and I mixed it as well as I could. It didn't look right at all. It was crumbly, not doughy or battery. There was no way that it could ever turn into a loaf of anything!
I muttered away to myself, thinking my "quart of flour" must have been very off, and decided to throw in some yoghurt.
I put in enough to turn the crumbly mixture into a bread-like dough …
… turned that into a buttered and papered loaf tin, and put it into the oven to bake.
It took a lot longer than the recipe's "an hour in a quick oven will bake it", but eventually it was done.
I haven't tried it yet, I might even let it age a bit before I do.
I checked the quart of flour thing with Wolfram Alpha, and my measurement was pretty much spot on. Maybe Mrs Glasse left something out of her recipe.
The Portugal cakes look interesting.... love those round bottom patty pans!
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